Bugger. Lower edge is much worse than I thought. It needs the entire section replacing! I thought tailgates were still relatively cheap but looks like prices have gone up. Reckon I’ll get the JK repair and fix this one as it seems a shame to chuck it.
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Engine lid hinge panel welded in. Just need to convert my new later style engine lid to fit
Outer valance and rear hinge panel
I’ve dressed all the welds on the outer valance now, much better than the klokker panel someone had previously fitted which wasn’t even welded along the top.
Chopped out the engine lid hinge panel as I had to remove the ends to get the new corner panels in, and autocraft do a good panel so it seemed silly not to. Not too bad underneath , just some surface rust.
A quick trial fit of the new panel to make sure the door gaps are still good. The new panel fits perfectly between the corner panels so all my measurements paid off!
And then rust treatment and epoxy mastic applied:
While the paint dried I got the air filter pedestal welded back in too.
I’ve been busy finishing up the faffy D pillar and wheel tub repairs which need to be done before I can fit the outer panels to complete the rear end. It’s amazing how much time all these little bits add up to; I’ve spent 2 weeks or so doing this and still have a little bit to go.
First up some repairs to the top of the D pillar on the drivers side which had rusted out for some reason half way down:
The inside got a clean up and paint before making up a repair in the folder and welding it in. You can just about see some further sections I had to let in right at the top near the roof too:
With the top of the pillar sorted I turned to the bottom which I repaired with a set of schofield repair panels. Inners:
The outer section had rusted higher than the repair panel would cover so I fabricated some extension pieces:
And all welded in:
Next up I turned my attention to the rear wheel tub closing panels. I ended up buying a second outer arch for both sides to make the closing panels from. Even with a bought in panel these repairs take a fair amount of time to trim and fit properly.
Passenger rear closing panel:
Passenger front closing panel:
And while I was in that wheel tub I repaired a small hole in this section too:
Onto the drivers side which got a new rear section to replace the shocking repair someone else had done:
This side is in much better condition than the other with only this section along the lip needing repair.
I just need to weld in the closing panels on this tub and I can then start cleaning up all the metal to get some paint on the insides of the corners and wheel tub.
N/S engine skirt repaired and trial fitted. In order to repair the O/S skirt I need the battery tray and new corner in place so it’s off with the corner! The inside of it is in relatively good nick but needs a jolly good cleanup.
Before I fit the engine bay skirt and battery tray I wanted to get the corner repair fitting nicely. It still needs trimming down a little in places but it’s looking good.
I’ve been super busy this week cracking on with the rear end restoration so haven’t got round to uploading any pictures this week until now.
To aid in getting the surrounding panels fitting correctly I’ve fitted a set of new hinges to the old engine lid and got the gaps correct (I have a new lid to fit at some point but need to convert the hinges on that first):
The passenger corner panel needs a new bottom on it, and, as the flange which attaches to the rear hatch seal channel had started to rust out, I ended up cutting fairly high up:
The bottom of the D pillar is completely rusted out, but the rest of it looks to be solid:
The engine bay skirt needs major repair. Only the section which sits on the chassis legs needs repairing though:
With the skirt out of the way the top of the chassis leg also needs replacing:
The driver’s side is in an even worse state and will be getting a complete new corner:
The battery tray had been “repaired” in the past with a delightful plate of sheet metal straight over the rotten tray:
A good day was spent just carefully chopping rot out to get to this stage:
Finally starting to get some fresh metal in. The O/S chassis leg needed a new end making up and welding in:
Both chassis leg tops cut off, and the insides rust treated and then epoxied:
Repairs made up for the tops of the chassis legs and welded in:
And finally the new inner valance welded in.
Keeping up the momentum on the welding and got the N/S outer rear arch welded in and pretty much all dressed. Managed to get a neater finish than I did on the sliding door. Into the engine bay next to sort the rear corner, battery tray and engine skirt.
Onto the Rear inner arch and tub sections. The N/S isn’t that bad with most of the lower lip still intact which makes a welcome change.
I started by getting the rear part of the tub repaired, using a Schofield’s panel and a small infill piece as the rust had extended past the height of the panel:
The rear of the lip had rusted out, by the looks of it from water getting through the rear bung hole which was missing its bung. Rust cut out:
Outer arch trial fitted and then a snug fitting repair for the inner made from a second outer panel:
Repair welded in and welds dressed from this side. I just need to dress the other side and trim the lip down a little.
Max also treated the cubby beneath the driver’s seat with some Deox Gel (amazing stuff for removing rust) and I coated it in some Hydrate 80 to seal the metal:
Driver’s cab floor all welded in. Just need to dress the welds and reattach the step to it.
